All about my lifted Volvo 240XC
Since lifting Volvo 240's is getting popular recently I get a lot of questions about my car. What I have done to it and what the exact dimensions and sizes are. I try to answer all these questions on this page. If you still have questions after reading all this, mail me at email@example.com.
Is it a 4x4?
No. A 240 is a rear wheel drive car from the factory. I have upgraded the rear diff with a Racingdiffs LSD conversion kit. This possible gives a little more traction when needed. I do not have the diff for long so I can't give a decent review for now.
How much is the car lifted?
On pictures from before the 8th of september 2020 the car is lifted 3 inches (75mm) on the front and rear axle. On more recent photo's I have a 4" (101mm) lift on the rear axle. This 4" kit is not (yet) for sale. I want to test new products extensivly on the road before starting to sell them.
The car is 0,78" (20mm) wider in the rear and 2" (50mm) on the front axle. The front axle has BDW support arm spacers and the rear has hub-centric wheel spacers. I have modified the rear arches even more for this. 20mm is more than enough to clear the inside of the wheel wells and not rub on the outside.
Widening the front axle has a lot of benefits (read the product page for details). You gain steering angle for a better turning radius, your camber is fixed from very positive to very negative and the car drives a lot more stable. I would never lift a 240 without spacing the front axle!
Why do the rear wheels need to be spaced?
This is to prevent the tires from rubbing on the inside of the wheel wells. More specifically hitting the upper mounts of the shock absorbers when the axle tilts. This happens during cornering for example. In the schematic picture below you can see what happens with the wheels when the axle tilts. The red dotted line is the car and the black dotted lines are the wheels. By moving the wheels out 20mm on each side (40mm total) you can prevent this rubbing. When ordering a lift kit, you can choose to order a pair of hub centric wheel spacers too.
Installing an adjustable panhard rod is not necessary, but I do recommend it.
What tire size do you run?
Yokohama Geolandar A/T in 235/75 R15. This fits with some cutting in the wheel wells. I wouldn't recommend to fit wider tyres.
What do I need to do to weld the lift kit?
With the lift kit are two special machined tubes supplied which have the exact dimensions of the struts. I've written some installation instructions with pictures on the product page of these tubes.
Can I install a lift kit myself?
Even when you're a beginner mechanic and only have some basic tools (a jack, wheel stands, socket set, breaker bar, etc) you can install a lift kit. Most parts are bolt-on. Each lift kit comes with a printed installation manual. In short these are the steps that involve cutting or welding:
- You have to cut the front struts and weld in the spacers
- In the rear support arms you need to drill a 8mm hole (this is to secure the shock spacers to prevent them from rotating)
- The spring retainers on the rear axle probably need to be cut since they almost always are rusted and will spin when trying to unbolt them. The kit comes with new, stronger spring retainers.
- The rear shocks have a steel bushing to align them inside the support arms. These need to be shortened with an angle grinder.
- You need to cut off approx 10mm from the tierods
What did you have to modify on the car?
I had to cut the wheel arches to fit these bigger tires. On the photo below you can see the white dotted lines which are the original body lines. The red parts are the parts I had to cut away.
The red portion in the back is the deleted spare wheel wells. This is not needed for the lift kit! I did this to get some more ground clearance (and to fix some rust issues).
Is the paint original?
No. This is Raptorliner colored to RAL1002, painted by hand. This paint is super hard and doesn't damage (if applied correctly).